In China's “fake world,” consumers can shop for furniture at an imitation IKEA store, eat a six-inch sandwich at an outlet strikingly similar to Subway, and then grab dessert at “Dairy Fairy”─ where they might knock back an Oreo-flavored “Ice Storm” whose, thick, creamy texture takes unabashed inspiration from the famous Dairy Queen “Blizzard.”

　　在中國的“山寨世界”里，消費(fèi)者可以在宜家家居“克隆店”里買家具，在極似賽百味（Subway）的店里吃六英寸的三明治，然后在冰雪精靈（Dairy Fairy）吃上些甜點(diǎn)，該店有一款名為“冰雪風(fēng)暴”（ Ice Storm）的奧利奧口味冰激凌，其濃厚滑膩的質(zhì)地毫不掩飾地借鑒了冰雪皇后（Dairy Queen）大名鼎鼎的“暴風(fēng)雪”（Blizzard）。

　　Welcome to the modern era of copying in China, in which sophisticated proprietors of knockoff stores and chains are targeting increasingly sophisticated Chinese consumers with store experiences and customer service extremely similar to the real thing, down to the helpful store maps, coupons, shopping bags and employee uniforms.

　　Bloomberg News昆明一家山寨蘋果店的Logo最近已被遮蓋。歡迎來到中國的山寨新時代，在這里，經(jīng)驗(yàn)老道的山寨商店和連鎖店店主們正以極似正品店的店內(nèi)體驗(yàn)與客戶服務(wù)面向越來越精明的中國消費(fèi)者，實(shí)用的店內(nèi)地圖、優(yōu)惠券、購物袋以及員工制服都模仿地天衣無縫。

　　The imitation retailers and restaurants go beyond the simple fakes of consumer goods that have long been abundant in China. Indeed, in some cases, they aren't even selling fake goods: the phenomenon gained global attention last month when a foreign blogger in the southwestern city of Kunming posted photos of a fake Apple Store selling real iPads and iPhones in a setting remarkably similar to Apple Inc.'s trademark retail outlets, and identifying itself as an Apple Store without the U.S. company's permission.

　　山寨零售店和餐廳遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)超越了對消費(fèi)品的簡單仿制，中國一直盛產(chǎn)這些冒牌貨。的確，有時候它們甚至都不是在賣假貨：上個月，這種現(xiàn)象吸引了全球關(guān)注，昆明一位外國博客作者上傳了昆明一家山寨蘋果店的照片，這家店的設(shè)計(jì)與氛圍與真的蘋果授權(quán)零售店極其相似，銷售iPad和iPhone正品，并在未獲得蘋果公司授權(quán)的情況下將自己視為蘋果店。

　　Imitation retailers and restaurants aren't new in China, but analysts and executives say they have proliferated in recent years. The trend reflects growing awareness of the importance of things like design and customer experience among entrepreneurs in China, where people long ago perfected the art of making imitation goods but where companies have been less successful building their own consumer brands, said Wei Xiaopo, an analyst at CLSA Asia-Pacific Markets.

　　山寨零售店和餐廳在中國并非新事物，但分析師和公司高管說這些山寨店近幾年數(shù)量激增。里昂證券亞太區(qū)市場(CLSA Asia-Pacific Markets)分析師魏曉坡說，這種趨勢表明，中國創(chuàng)業(yè)者正日益意識到設(shè)計(jì)和客戶體驗(yàn)等方面的重要性，很久以前中國人比較喜歡生產(chǎn)仿品，但企業(yè)一直沒能成功的創(chuàng)立自己的消費(fèi)品牌。

　　“Chinese companies know that service and experience have become among the most critical parts of branding for businesses that operate in China,” said Mr. Wei.

　　魏曉坡說，中國企業(yè)明白，對于在中國經(jīng)營的企業(yè)，服務(wù)和體驗(yàn)已經(jīng)成為品牌化最重要的兩個元素。

　　While China is hardly the only country to have problems with commercial fakery, what happens here now matters enormously for multinational companies, because China is the world's most important growth market for consumer goods. Retail spending is expected to reach 27.4 trillion yuan ($4.3 trillion) by 2015, up by more than two thirds from the level last year, according to the Chinese Academy of Social Sciences, a government think tank.

　　雖然中國不大可能是唯一一個有商業(yè)造假問題的國家，但這里現(xiàn)在所發(fā)生的事對跨國公司來說利害攸關(guān)，因?yàn)橹袊鞘澜缱钪匾南M(fèi)品增長市場。據(jù)政府智庫中國社會科學(xué)院統(tǒng)計(jì)，中國社會消費(fèi)品零售總額將在2015年達(dá)到27.4萬億元，較去年增長三分之二以上。

　　China's government has acknowledged problems with piracy, and has taken measures to address it that some foreign executives and experts say are starting to make headway. After the fake Apple Store was highlighted last month, Kunming officials initiated a sweeping inspection of electronic stores in the city. It's unclear whether they have taken any action against the Apple store, whose staffers now refuse to answer queries over the phone.

　　小測驗(yàn)：原版還是山寨？以下商鋪，哪個是原版？哪個是山寨？文章的最后會給你答案。AGetty ImagesBBloomberg NewsCBloomberg NewsDReuterEMelissa Powers for The Wall Street JournalF中國政府已經(jīng)承認(rèn)存在盜版問題，并已經(jīng)采取措施進(jìn)行解決，一些外籍高管和專家說這些措施開始緩慢取得進(jìn)展。上個月山寨蘋果店曝光后，昆明政府對全市范圍內(nèi)的電子產(chǎn)品進(jìn)行了檢查。不清楚他們是否針對該山寨蘋果店采取了行動，該店員工目前拒絕接受電話采訪。

　　The fake stores present new complications for global companies that have long struggled to protect their brands in China. Some executives say that fake stores can help build brand awareness. And in cases of unauthorized resellers like the Apple store in Kunming, the foreign company is still benefiting from sales of its own products.

　　對長期努力在中國維護(hù)自己品牌的全球性公司來說，這些山寨店給他們帶來了新的困難。一些高管說，山寨店可有助于建立品牌意識。即便在像昆明山寨店那樣的個案中，蘋果公司依然在從自己產(chǎn)品的銷售中獲利。

　　Alexander Moody-Stuart, managing director at sandwich chain Subway, said the number of imitators that come to franchising fairs in China increases every year. He said there are Subway copiers that use similar logos, offer sandwiches in six-inch and 12-inch formats as Subway does (China generally uses the metric system), and even accept coupons from Subway when consumers confuse the two stores.

　　三明治連鎖店賽百味董事總經(jīng)理穆迪-司徒華（Alexander Moody-Stuart）說，在中國開業(yè)的特許經(jīng)營山寨店數(shù)量每年都在增加。他說，有的山寨店使用和賽百味類似的品牌標(biāo)識，和賽百味一樣供應(yīng)六英寸和12英寸的三明治，甚至在顧客分不清兩家店時接受賽百味的優(yōu)惠券。

　　For Subway, which is trying to build awareness to a type of food that isn't always eaten in China, 'the mimicking isn't exactly a bad thing,' Mr. Moody-Stuart said.

　　司徒華說，對賽百味來說，這種仿冒并不見得是壞事。賽百味正試圖提高人們對在中國并不常吃的食品的認(rèn)知度。

　　But the imitation stores also limit the companies' ability to control the experience that consumers have with their brands. Copycat companies run the risk of tarnishing a consumer's association with an already established brand at a time when Chinese consumers are increasingly brand-conscious. Apple, for example, wasn't able to oversee the service or hire the employees at fake stores like the one in Kunming the way it does painstakingly at its own outlets. Walt Disney Co. has similar difficulties: a number of 'Disney Stores' are open in China, even though the U.S. company hasn't yet launched its trademarked chain of stand-alone retail shops in the country─although it does license its products for sale in the Chinese market.

　　但山寨店同時也限制了各公司控制消費(fèi)者對公司品牌體驗(yàn)的能力。在中國消費(fèi)者品牌意識日漸增強(qiáng)之時，山寨公司可能會損壞消費(fèi)者與公認(rèn)品牌之間的關(guān)系。例如，蘋果無法像對正品零售店那樣煞費(fèi)苦心地對類似昆明蘋果店的山寨店進(jìn)行服務(wù)監(jiān)督，也無法盡心盡力地為那些店招聘員工。美國的華特•迪士尼公司（Walt Disney Co.）也有類似困難：雖然公司尚未在中國開設(shè)在獨(dú)立零售店注冊連鎖，但已經(jīng)有好幾家“迪士尼商店”在中國開業(yè)，盡管公司確實(shí)已經(jīng)授權(quán)產(chǎn)品在中國市場銷售。

　　Spokeswomen for Apple and Disney in China declined to comment.

　　蘋果和迪士尼駐中國發(fā)言人拒絕置評。

　　Copycat stores range from small regional operations, such as 11 Furniture, which runs two stores, to larger Dairy Fairy-type national franchises. To some degree, the copycat stores illustrate that there's demand that's not being met, because some foreign companies haven't expanded into huge swaths of China's interior, said Torsten Stocker a Hong Kong analyst for Cambridge, Mass., consulting firm Monitor Group.

　　這些山寨店鋪的規(guī)模各有不同，有的是區(qū)域性小規(guī)模運(yùn)營，比如十一家具（11 Furniture）就只經(jīng)營兩家店鋪；有的像冰雪精靈則是全國性連鎖經(jīng)營?？偛课挥诿绹R薩諸塞州劍橋市的咨詢公司摩立特集團(tuán)（Monitor Group）駐香港的分析師施托克爾（Torsten Stocker）說，在某種程度上，山寨店的存在說明市場有無法被滿足的需求，因?yàn)橐恍┩鈬髽I(yè)還未擴(kuò)張到中國內(nèi)陸的廣大地區(qū)。

　　Apple, for example, has only four of its stores in China─in Beijing and Shanghai─though it licenses resellers elsewhere in the country. Swedish furniture giant IKEA Group hasn't yet expanded into China's far western cities like Kunming, where a Chinese company called 11 Furniture is mirroring IKEA's store marketing strategy─everything from its blue-and-yellow colors and in-store room displays to special golf pencils and crinkling plastic bags.

　　以蘋果為例，雖然蘋果公司準(zhǔn)許全國其它地區(qū)的經(jīng)銷商銷售其產(chǎn)品，但該公司在中國只有位于北京和上海的四家門店。瑞典家具巨頭宜家集團(tuán)尚未擴(kuò)張到類似昆明這樣中國偏遠(yuǎn)的西部城市。在昆明，一家名叫十一家具的中國企業(yè)正在模仿宜家的店鋪營銷策略：從藍(lán)黃相間的色調(diào)，到店內(nèi)房間的陳設(shè)，再到特殊的鉛筆和皺紋塑料袋，十一家具在模仿宜家的所有營銷策略。

　　Just like IKEA does, 11 Furniture uses blue signs and yellow arrows on the floor to direct consumers through mock living rooms, where sofas sit opposite flat screen TVs and tables that look like they should have names like Folkvik and Liatorp (instead of Shuwei Kela Chaji).

　　和宜家一樣，十一家具也在地板上使用藍(lán)色標(biāo)志和黃色箭頭引導(dǎo)顧客參觀客廳樣板間。在樣板間里，沙發(fā)正對平板電視擺放，一旁擺著的桌子看上去更像宜家的電視儲物柜（Folkvik）和系列桌椅（Liatorp），但它的真正名字卻叫舒唯科拉茶幾。

　　A spokeswoman in China for IKEA, which has nine stores in China and plans to open 12 more, said of 11 Furniture that “IKEA is not aware of copyright infringement.”

　　宜家中國的一位發(fā)言人談到十一家具時說，宜家并沒有意識到自己的版權(quán)遭到了侵犯。宜家在中國已有九家店鋪，并計(jì)劃再開12家。

　　Not everything is knockoff in imitation outlets. At Dairy Fairy, a national franchise chain that opened in 2008, ice cream, including the Blizzard-like “Ice Storm,” is served upside-down, just like at Dairy Queen, which has 360 stores in China. Cups are marked with “DF” in red and blue, resembling the colors Dairy Queen uses and its “DQ” nickname. Dairy Fairy employees are donned in blue uniforms with red aprons─nearly a mirror image of Dairy Queen employees. But at a Dairy Fairy in Beijing on Tuesday, the menu also included items that one wouldn't find at a DQ, such as spicy-pepper-flavored ice cream.

　　但山寨店里也并非所有東西都是翻版。冰雪精靈是2008年開業(yè)的全國連鎖冰激凌店，在其店內(nèi)，包括和冰雪皇后的“暴風(fēng)雪”（Blizzard）類似的“冰雪風(fēng)暴”在內(nèi)的冰激凌都可以做到和冰雪皇后產(chǎn)品一樣的“倒杯不灑”。冰雪皇后在中國開設(shè)了360家店面。冰雪精靈的冰激凌杯都印有紅藍(lán)兩種顏色的“DF”字樣，這和冰雪皇后及其縮寫DQ所使用的顏色類似。冰雪精靈的服務(wù)員身著藍(lán)色制服，帶紅色圍裙，這幾乎就是冰雪皇后服務(wù)員的翻版。但記者周二在北京冰雪精靈的一家店內(nèi)的菜單上發(fā)現(xiàn)了一些在冰雪皇后無法找到的產(chǎn)品，比如辛辣口味的冰激凌。

　　Dairy Fairy declined to comment and didn't offer details on the number of stores it operates in China. Dairy Queen vice president of international marketing Justin Holtkamp said the company isn't aware of Dairy Fairy, but that it has other imitators, who just use the company's name or call it “Dairy & Queen.” Dairy Queen has shut down two stores that infringed its trademark within the last year, he said.

　　冰雪精靈拒絕置評，也不透露其在中國內(nèi)地運(yùn)營的店鋪數(shù)量的詳情。冰雪皇后主管國際營銷的副總裁霍特坎普（Justin Holtkamp）說，該公司并不知道冰雪精靈，但他說公司有其它模仿者。這些效仿者有的直接使用公司的名稱，有的則把店名改為“Dairy & Queen”。霍特坎普說，去年冰雪皇后關(guān)閉了兩家侵犯其商標(biāo)的店鋪。

　　Some proprietors say their company's similarity to known brands is a coincidence. At Jambo Juice in Beijing, where smoothies are made on-the-spot so consumers can add so-called energy boosters and opt for antioxidants, the green signs and tropical colors are familiar to anyone who has ever patronized U.S.-based chain Jamba Juice, which doesn't have outlets in China.

　　但有些企業(yè)說，其公司名稱和知名品牌相似純屬巧合。北京的漿寶超活力代餐吧（Jambo Juice）提供現(xiàn)場制作的冰沙，顧客可以選擇添加所謂的“能量增強(qiáng)劑”，也可以選擇添加抗氧化劑。對于任何一個曾光顧過美國冰沙連鎖店Jamba Juice的人都會覺得漿寶餐吧的綠色標(biāo)志和熱帶顏色非常眼熟，但Jamba Juice在中國并沒有分店。

　　But Jambo's founder, Ye Jiabin, says he got the English name from an African language (it is a greeting in Swahili), and is now considering changing the name because it is too similar to the U.S. company. “We've just always put more emphasis on the Chinese name”─which is Jiang Bao─he said.

　　但漿寶餐吧的創(chuàng)始人葉家斌（音）說，餐吧的英文名源自非洲部落語言（在斯瓦希里語中，Jambo是問候語），但他說現(xiàn)在正考慮改名，因?yàn)檫@個名字和美國的Jamba Juice實(shí)在太像了。葉家斌還說我們總是更多地強(qiáng)調(diào)其中文名“漿寶”。

　　Still, the scale of some examples is startling. In Changzhou, Jiangsu Global Digital Cultural Theme Park Co. has opened a park called Global Animation Joyland, which bloggers have called attention to because it includes a section that appears to be based on Activision Blizzard Inc.'s World of Warcraft massive multiplayer online game.

　　盡管如此，一些山寨的規(guī)模還是令人震驚。在常州，江蘇環(huán)球數(shù)字文化體驗(yàn)園有限公司（Jiangsu Global Digital Cultural Theme Park Co.）最近開設(shè)了一個名叫環(huán)球動漫嬉戲谷的主題樂園。這座樂園引起了很多博主的注意，因?yàn)闃穲@內(nèi)有一個部分似乎是基于動視暴雪公司（Activision Blizzard Inc.）推出的大型多人網(wǎng)絡(luò)游戲《魔獸世界》（World of Warcraft）建造的。

　　Activision Blizzard said it hasn't licensed the use of its intellectual property to Joyland or any other theme park, and is “actively looking into the situation.” The Chinese version of World of Warcraft, operated through a licensing agreement by Chinese Internet company Netease.com Inc., is one of the most popular online games in China. Netease didn't respond to requests for comment.

　　動視暴雪公司說，該公司并未將其知識產(chǎn)權(quán)的使用權(quán)授權(quán)給環(huán)球動漫嬉戲谷或其它任何一座主題樂園使用，并說公司正在積極調(diào)查此事。中文版《魔獸世界》是中國互聯(lián)網(wǎng)公司網(wǎng)易（Netease.com Inc.）簽署授權(quán)協(xié)議后進(jìn)行運(yùn)營的。這款游戲是中國最受歡迎的網(wǎng)游之一。網(wǎng)易沒有回復(fù)記者的置評請求。

　　Joyland, a park that opened with blessings from local officials, also includes licensed sections devoted to other brands including “Mo'er Manor,” based on an online community for children by New York Stock Exchange-listed Taomee Holdings Ltd., and a store carrying official merchandise of Walt Disney Co.

　　環(huán)球動漫嬉戲谷是在當(dāng)?shù)毓賳T的批準(zhǔn)和支持下建成的，樂園內(nèi)包括獲得其它品牌授權(quán)的部分，其中包括“摩爾莊園”（Mo'er Manor）以及一個銷售華特-迪士尼公司（Walt Disney Co.）官方商品的店鋪。“摩爾莊園”是根據(jù)在紐約證券交易所（New York Stock Exchange）上市的上海淘米網(wǎng)絡(luò)科技有限公司（Taomee Holdings Ltd.）推出的兒童網(wǎng)絡(luò)社區(qū)建設(shè)的。